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Sunday, March 28, 2010

Fabric Grain Lines


Determining where the fabric grain lines are very important.  Where you place your pattern templates on the fabric greatly affects your finished piece.  Here's a quick over view that will clarify what the grain lines are all about.



   The selvage is the outer edges of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.  It is a tight weave that does not fray and usually does not have the design printed on it (See the "Lotus" print above).  This is an important reference point as it runs along the lengthwise grain.  When pattern templates say "grainline" with an arrow, they are referring to the selvage line.  Both the lengthwise and crosswise grains are strong, great for use on stable pieces and handbags.



  The bias is located on a diagonal to the selvage.  This direction has an extraordinary amount of stretch and falls softly.  Garments that have drapping (think roman goddess) and soft flowing skirts usually are cut on the bias.  If these garments were cut on either the crosswise or lengthwise grain the look would be bulky and stiff.

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