Fabric Grain Lines

Determining where the fabric grain lines are very important.  Where you place your pattern templates on the fabric greatly affects your finished piece.  Here's a quick over view that will clarify what the grain lines are all about.

Fabric Finds: Lauren and Jessi Jung

 Flora in Pollen available Here

Fabric designers Lauren and Jessi Jung have released their newest collection, "Botany", this March.  I love this collection because it is so colorful and sophisticated at the same time, perfect for Spring!  Check out their website for free patterns and resources.

Bramble Vine in Grass available Here

Topiary in Ripple available Here

The complete 40 piece collection is available at Hancock's of Paducah.

Fashion Darts vs. Madonna Cone Bra

 Madonna's cone bra was great in the 80s.  It made a statement and was outrageous!  But who want's to look like this today?
 

Darts are used in many patterns to create shape.  You see them a lot at the bust and waist.  But unfortunately, many commercial patterns don't explain much on how to sew them.  Many of us have improperly sewn darts that end up with points at the end, hence the Madonna Cone Bra Syndrome. 

Fun Facts: Industry Size

Have you ever wondered why the size you wear for clothes off the rack is not the same as a sewing pattern?  The sewing pattern size is usually about two to three sizes larger.  Another discrepancy is that a size 6 at Old Navy is not the same size 6 at Banana Republic..or The Gap ....or Macys....or...  You get the picture.  What's that about?

Get Clean Stitch Lines

Have you ever had this problem?  Where the sewing machine thread gets possessed and decides to run amock!  Not only does it pucker your fabric, but the stitch itself is weak!! Relax. There's a solution and it doesn't require divine intervention.

Make Your Own Tailor's Chalk

Tailor's chalk is used to mark important sewing points on fabric, such as positioning of darts,  where a pocket is placed, or tracing a quick hem.  It's a wonderful tool because it will not leave any permanent marks on your fabric, as a pencil or (God forbid) a PEN would! (You know who you are).

I like to use tailor's chalk because it slides onto the fabric so easy, unlike many fabric markers.  It has a waxy texture.  It also comes off just as easily with a quick brush off or just a dab of water.

Store Tailor's Chalk

Here's a quick tip on making your own tailor's chalk.  You know that little sliver of bar soap that is left at the end?  The one that is too small to even be of use as a hand soap and gets tossed in the trash.  Don't throw that out!  Instead, lay it in a warm area and let it dry out.  Instant tailor's chalk!  Super simple and easy.  No residue, no hassle.

 Homemade Tailor's Chalk

Now, just imagine all the "tailor's chalk" that has been thrown away in the past....what a shame :)

Trick for Cleaning your Cutting Mat

Have you ever noticed fuzzier fabrics get an excessive amount of fabric lint stuck in the cutting mat?  Especially quilter's batting.  It is so annoying to clean out.   I picked up this little trick for cleaning a self-healing cutting mat after much frustration and found that it works the best.

Textile Talk: Not Just for Scarlett O'Hara

Crinoline is a structural material that has kinda been forgotten.  But it's one that I enjoy using because of it's unique properties.

When you hear the word crinoline, most people imagine stiff petticoats worn under yards and yards of fabric by Victorian women.  When crinoline was first invented in the 1830s it was a linen material woven with horsehair, because of it's stiff texture it was used for cloth petticoats. Thank goodness it's not made with horsehair any more and us women don't have to wear it!


 I'm a big fan of crinoline for the following  reasons: 

1. It's cheap.  About $2.75 a yard.

2. It's stiffness can be utilized as a base for all materials, including delicates that can not have interfacing fused to them.

3. It's easy to work with.  Just cut and go, your done!  No fraying.

My favorite use for crinoline is for handbags.  I use it as a base to create a foundation for my sewing projects.  The "Mia Rose"pattern is a great example of how to use crinoline for bags.  It has been pointed out to me that it's also wonderful for backing framed paintings and photos!

Crinoline

Scissor Care

Other than the sewing machine, scissors are the most important tool in sewing.  So caring for them properly is vital to have them last a lifetime.  I recommend investing in a good pair of scissors, such as Gingher.  It will save you time and frustration.

Fabric Finds: St. Patrick's Day!

 St. Patrick's Day is just around the corner.  Avoid getting pinched and look cute at the same time with these fun fabric finds.  Great for a small hand bag or fabric corsage!

 

Humming Birds in Lime by Patty Young - $2.50 Fat Quarter 

Nicey Jane, Pocketbook by Heather Bailey - $2.50 FQ 

 

Magnolia by Jessica Levitt - $4.50 1/2 yard

iPhone/Blackberry Sewing Pattern Tip

Here's a quick tip for the iPhone and Blackberry sewing pattern.  When stitching the flap together, get clean symmetric corners by rounding the corners.  Instead of making a sharp 90 degree turn, softly slope the corner and clip with scissors.  It will reduce the amount of bulk and give a well defined corner when turned right-side-out. 

FREE Pattern of the Month: Card/Cash Holder

Here's the pattern on the mini wallet I made for my sister.  I also made one for myself and it's super convenient.  This project is perfect for all those cute little pieces of left over fabric you have.  Estimated sewing time: 20 minutes. 

Supplies:
1 Pearl Snap
Fabric (at least 5" X 8" pieces)
Lining (at least 5" X 8")
Interfacing
Thread
Optional: Key Ring

 
Download the CARD HOLDER PATTERN here. 

Free Heather Bailey Patterns

Heather Bailey is one of my favorite fabric designers.  Her designs are always so fun and colorful.  Check out the cute patterns that are available at her blog HellomynameisHeather. Just scroll the left side of the page and it will be under "Free Patterns".

Square Deal Pin Cushions

Hip Headbands

Baby Booties

Sewing Tools: Cone Thread Holder

I love gadgets.  Especially sewing gadgets!  The Cone Thread Holder is a huge money saver.   If you don't have one, GET ONE!  NOW! Ok, ok...on your next trip to the fabric store is acceptable.  This tool is awesome.  It only costs about $7 and will save you lots of mula.  A typical spool of thread costs about $3-4 for 250 yards.  With a Cone Thread Holder you can use the larger spoons of thread (overlock thread) which costs only $1.99 for 3,000 yards!  It doesn't matter what type of sewing machine you have, it's so versatile it works with just about every situation.  I have used the same one for 10 years and love it, love it, love it.

 

Cone Thread Holder $7

 

Just place a spool of thread in the holder. Position the holder close to your machine.

Guide the thread in the same direction a small spool would follow.

   

So many thread color choices!

Flat Felled Seam

A Flat Felled seam is a great way to finish off a seam so there are no raw edges showing inside or out.  It's typically used on denim, sports wear, or children's clothing because it's extra strong.  You can also use it on the outer seam of a bag for a decorative finish!

 

Flat Felled Seam

Find out how to make this simple seam by clicking on "Read More".

How to Make Your Own Labels

Purchasing custom labels can not only be expensive, but also restricting.  You have to use THEIR format and are forced into purchasing a minimum order (which is usually in the hundreds).  What happens if I don't like the way they come out?  Or if I had a couple ideas for labels in mind?  Tough luck!?

I prefer to make my own labels, in which I decide what size, text, graphic and colors I want.  And I can experiment without breaking the bank!  These handmade labels are totally machine washable and will not fray.  No special equipment is required other than an iron and a home printer.  All supplies can be found in your local fabric store.  CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL TUTORIAL.

SUPPLIES

• 1 Sew-In Fabric Sheet for Ink Jet Printers (usually found in the quilting section)
• 1 Bottle Fray Check
• Rotary Cutter & Cutting Mat OR Scissors
• Ruler
• Home Ink Jet Printer