Pacific Designs

Sewing Threads Then and Now

2010-09-07T16:38:00.000-07:00

As I was putting the final stitches in my latest creation, I began to wonder: What was the first thread like? So, I decided to do some research.

What I found was absolutely amazing. Did you have any idea that early humans were using very thin animal skins and tendons? Gross! I didn't either, and if you would like to know more, feel free to read in- depth coverage on Sewalot.com

(Apparently, Wilma was stripping the carcass of the sabre-toothed tiger for thread to sew Fred's bowling shirts!)

What thread is the right thread for my next project? Well, that depends on what your next project is. Here are some guidelines to let you know what to look for based on what you have.

All Purpose - Pictured at the top of this post and made from cotton, or polyester, and you can sometimes even pick up the much-coveted cotton wrapped polyester thread. These threads are usually treated with heat resistant finishes to prepare them for the earth re-entry-like friction that occurs in machine sewing.

Heavy Duty - Use this thread when sewing together denim, or canvas. You can also use it for exterior upholstery. It is generally thicker than all-purpose thread and is made from nylon, polyester or cotton. You can either buy this for your machine, or smaller discs of the tough stuff for hand sewing

Pictured to the left is a collection of heavy duty thread spools. The good thing is that when you are finished with your sewing project, they double as kite string!

Invisible Thread - This thread is the official thread of the Invisible man. It's made from nylon mono-filament and comes in clear and smoke colors. Typically used for fabric crafts, machine quilting and applique.

Quilting Thread - Both for hand quilting and machine quilting. It can be either cotton, or cotton wrapped polyester and is usually heavier duty than the all-purpose thread of the same material. Choose variegated colors so they blend more easily into fabrics. You can also incorporate the above mentioned invisible thread into your next quilting project.

Upholstery Thread - This stuff is usually a synthetic material, rayon or polyester and is stronger and more heavyweight than all-purpose thread. Exterior upholstery thread is treated with UV and weather resistance for outdoor projects.

And you just thought all threads were the same!

Thinking Outside the Box: FABRIC SOURCES

2010-08-26T20:13:00.000-07:00

So, you're ready to tackle that new sewing project! You've got your design in mind. You've got your sewing machine all tuned up. You've got the bobbins filled. You're ready! But how do you find the perfect fabric to go with your special project? We can't all shop at Mood like the Project Runway designers.

So, where do we find the ideal fabric? The answer: Almost anywhere!

Of course, there's the obvious local fabric store, but let's delve deeper.

Check with Mom, or Grandma, or Great Aunt Matilda at that next family reunion. Odds are good if you're looking for vintage fabrics, they're looking to have you haul away their old stuff.
Visit your local thrift store. If Aunt Matilda donated her attic to the local Goodwill, you can probably buy yards of it for $2.
Talk to your friends, find out what fabrics they have. They might have something just sitting at the bottom of their closet that they forgot about which is exactly the accent you need on that skirt you're finishing up.
Go online, eBay, Etsy, or check Craigslist, especially the Free section. Just found this beautiful post: "Lots of fabric: gingham, felt, flannel and much more. Free to someone who sews and can use it! Please briefly tell why you want it. "
Get brave and venture into your local flea market, wheel and deal your way into fabric bliss.
Check out your neighborhood yard sales. You would be surprised!

There are countless places to find your new fave fabric. And, think about it, if you want to stand out in a crowd, there's no better way then by using a textile that has been out of print since your grandmother was younger than you. And there's no better way to find it than your own way. Just remember, it's not just a cute top, its a great story.

Sewing Tip - Organize Your Rulers

2010-08-01T08:36:00.000-07:00

If you are like me and have waaaaay too many quilter and sewing rulers of different sizes, you know how challenging it is to store them as they tend to flop all over the place. Here's a great way to "straighten" them out....ok, that was a lame joke;)

Most rulers have a hole at one end. This is the side of my bookshelf. I just drilled a screw on to the side and hang all my rulers in a neat tidy pile. I love it!

SIDE VIEW

FRONT VIEW

Fabric Finds: In The Beginning

2010-07-30T08:59:00.000-07:00

This beautiful print by Keri Beyer is on sale along with many other In The Beginning quilting fabrics. Wouldn't this look fabulous on a wallet or even place mats? This one is just $2.49 for 1/2 a yard! These fabric deals are available HERE.

Sewing Tip - How to start a Seam

2010-07-28T20:48:00.000-07:00

When starting a new seam on a sewing machine, the tread and needle can jam and drag your fabric down into the shaft of the needle plate. Thus making you stop, fix the fabric, and start all over again. This can cause frustration and a couple of colorful comments to spew from your lips. There is a super simple way to avoid this problem!

1. Make your first needle puncture about 1/2" in from the back edge of your fabric, instead of the very beginning of the seam.

2. While holding the thread tails, sew forward for a couple of stitches. Then backstitch all the way to the back edge of the fabric.

3. Now sew forward again and continue sewing your garment!

How to Make Cafe Curtains in 2 hours

2010-07-14T12:40:00.000-07:00

I've been wanting to make curtains for my kitchen nook for awhile now. The problem is that I need curtains that provide privacy but also let in as much light as possible. I love the idea of a french bistro cafe curtain, but was worried it would look too country instead of modern contemporary. I found this look and was instantly smitten!

Here's my interpretation as I wanted the curtain to be recessed in the window as apposed to the rod on the outside of the frame.

I also left my blinds up at the top so I can pull the shades down at night. These took me only 2 hours to complete and hang as I used a spring tension rod.

(Uh, btw: taking photos from the inside of the house facing out into the sunny day is extremely challenging. My camera kept darkening the pics!)

HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS:

SUPPLIES:

Suggested Fabric: sheers, light weight cotton, bleached muslin
Spring Tension Curtain Rod
Cafe Rings
Thread

Wash your fabric before cutting to pre-shrink.

TOOLS:

Sewing Machine
Seam gauge or ruler
Yard stick
Iron

DETERMINING HOW MUCH FABRIC YOU NEED:

Length:
Measure your window's length and decide how long you would like your curtain. Usually, cafe curtains are positioned at the middle length of the window, but it is not set in stone. Add 2" for the top seam and 4" for the bottom seam.

Width:
To find the width needed, measure your window's length and mutiply by 1.5. You can also add 4" allowance for the side seams (1" on each end), but I did not as, I didn't want them too voluminous.

CUTTING AND MARKING FABRIC:

ONE PANEL

Length: Cut your fabric according to your measurements. Finished length + 2" + 4".

Width: Cut fabric according to window width mutliplied by 1.5. Optional: add 4" for side seams. Cut fabric in half lengthwise into two pieces to make a set of cafe curtains for one window.

You should have 2 pieces of fabric similar to the diagram.

DIRECTIONS:

Use a seam gauge or ruler and fold down sides 1/2". Press with iron. Repeat with other side and second curtain.

2. Fold down again 1/2" to hide raw edge. Press with iron. Repeat.

3. Stitch close to folded edge. Repeat.

4. Measure and fold Bottom edge 2", press. Fold again 2", press, stitch.

Repeat with Top edge with a 1" allowance instead.

5. Stitch closed the opening on sides for tops and bottoms.

6. Give curtains a final press and clamp curtain clips in evenly spaced intervals. Hang your new curtains and admire your awesomeness!

Now that I have the curtains, on to the next project! I would love to complete the nook with this look. Wouldn't my new cafe curtains fit perfectly here, lol :)

Work in Progress-Mod Bag

2010-05-18T13:58:00.000-07:00

Here is the next project I have been working on between school and work. It's a very unique whimsical bag that would be great for the summer. I hope to have the pattern done by next weekend.

New Pattern: Amanda Bag

2010-04-09T23:48:00.000-07:00

The Amanda Bag sewing pattern is finally available for purchase at Pacific Designs Shop. With classes, work, and life it was challenging to find time. I love this bag so much! I'm sending it to my cousin as a baby bag which will be very difficult because I want it for me instead!

Sewing Tools: C-Thur Ruler

2010-04-10T12:48:00.000-07:00

The C-Thur Ruler is a handy tool to have for sewing. It's transparency is great for checking seams or making modifications, enabling you to see exactly where your line is. For super accurate seams, you can line up the raw edge with the ruler and mark your seam with tailor's chalk before sewing. These rulers are available at Amazon for less than $5 or at your local pattern supply shop.

Fabric Grain Lines

2010-03-28T06:50:00.000-07:00

Determining where the fabric grain lines are very important. Where you place your pattern templates on the fabric greatly affects your finished piece. Here's a quick over view that will clarify what the grain lines are all about.

The selvage is the outer edges of the fabric as it comes off the bolt. It is a tight weave that does not fray and usually does not have the design printed on it (See the "Lotus" print above). This is an important reference point as it runs along the lengthwise grain. When pattern templates say "grainline" with an arrow, they are referring to the selvage line. Both the lengthwise and crosswise grains are strong, great for use on stable pieces and handbags.

The bias is located on a diagonal to the selvage. This direction has an extraordinary amount of stretch and falls softly. Garments that have drapping (think roman goddess) and soft flowing skirts usually are cut on the bias. If these garments were cut on either the crosswise or lengthwise grain the look would be bulky and stiff.

Fabric Finds: Lauren and Jessi Jung

2010-03-26T06:04:00.000-07:00

Flora in Pollen available Here

Fabric designers Lauren and Jessi Jung have released their newest collection, "Botany", this March. I love this collection because it is so colorful and sophisticated at the same time, perfect for Spring! Check out their website for free patterns and resources.

Bramble Vine in Grass available Here

Topiary in Ripple available Here

The complete 40 piece collection is available at Hancock's of Paducah.

Fashion Darts vs. Madonna Cone Bra

2010-03-24T14:00:00.000-07:00

Madonna's cone bra was great in the 80s. It made a statement and was outrageous! But who want's to look like this today?

Darts are used in many patterns to create shape. You see them a lot at the bust and waist. But unfortunately, many commercial patterns don't explain much on how to sew them. Many of us have improperly sewn darts that end up with points at the end, hence the Madonna Cone Bra Syndrome.

Bust Dart

The following directions will show you how to stitch a dart that will have a smooth finish. No more pointy, puckered darts.

DIRECTIONS:

1. First fold your dart and draw a line from the end point to the legs. Pin in place.

2. Stitch along the marked line.

3. Instead of sewing right to the end point, stitch to the edge of the foldline

about 1/8" BELOW the end point.

4. Stitch very close to the foldline for 2 stitches. Do not back stitch.

5. To finish the line you will make a hand knot.

Pull one of the threads until a loop is formed by the other loose thread.

6. Pull this loop all the way through.

Now both threads should be on the same side.

7. Tie a knot.

8. Press open. Now you have a clean dart, without points.

Fun Facts: Industry Size

2010-03-20T19:14:00.000-07:00

Have you ever wondered why the size you wear for clothes off the rack is not the same as a sewing pattern? The sewing pattern size is usually about two to three sizes larger. Another discrepancy is that a size 6 at Old Navy is not the same size 6 at Banana Republic..or The Gap ....or Macys....or... You get the picture. What's that about?

During the 1940s-1950s the US government had taken measurements from thousands of Caucasian American women. Using this statistical data, they came up with the US clothing standard sizes. The overall average of these women was size 8 (36" bust x 26"waist x 36" hip).

This became the "industry size 8" from which all fashion designers drafted patterns from (which is still used today). At that time, size 8 was the same no matter where you went or who's clothing label it was. All was right in the world.....

But not for long. Clothing labels (marketing research dept) started to figure out that women bought more of their clothing over all when they put "size 6" on a garment that was really a size 8!

Soon the word got out and other companies started the same practices. Everyone was making up whatever number suited their products.

Thus bringing us to our present predicament. So don't brush off that dressing room, it could be your best friend!

Scissor Care

2010-03-11T08:06:00.000-08:00

Other than the sewing machine, scissors are the most important tool in sewing. So caring for them properly is vital to have them last a lifetime. I recommend investing in a good pair of scissors, such as Gingher. It will save you time and frustration.

To care for your scissors, just follow these easy steps:

Only cut Fabric: Never use your sewing scissors to cut paper or cardstock. This is the quickest way to dull them.
Thread: Never use your scissors to cut thread. This will cause little nicks to form in the metal after extended use. Instead use embroidery scissors or thread snips.
Clean: After each use, wipe your blades with a clean cloth to remove lint, fabric dust and thread.
Storage: When storing, keep them in their sheath. Lay them flat when in storage, never place them in a pencil cup as this will chip the tip.
Sharpen: Have your scissors professionally sharpened every year or two.

Get Clean Stitch Lines

2010-03-19T06:37:00.000-07:00

Have you ever had this problem? Where the sewing machine thread gets possessed and decides to run amock! Not only does it pucker your fabric, but the stitch itself is weak!! Relax. There's a solution and it doesn't require divine intervention.

The cause for all the grief is that the thread is being yanked into the sewing machine when a new seam is started, creating a tangley mess. Instead, when you start a new seam, make sure to hold the tail thread taunt as you sew for the first couple of stitches.

Neat, clean lines are the result. Beautiful!

Trick for Cleaning your Cutting Mat

2010-03-13T07:04:00.000-08:00

Have you ever noticed fuzzier fabrics get an excessive amount of fabric lint stuck in the cutting mat? Especially quilter's batting. It is so annoying to clean out. I picked up this little trick for cleaning a self-healing cutting mat after much frustration and found that it works the best.

Just use a standard pencil eraser and rub your lint problems away!

Before

Use the eraser to get rid of the fabric lint.

After

For a super clean look, wash your mat with soap and water for a squeaky clean finish!

Make Your Own Tailor's Chalk

2010-03-18T18:24:00.000-07:00

Tailor's chalk is used to mark important sewing points on fabric, such as positioning of darts, where a pocket is placed, or tracing a quick hem. It's a wonderful tool because it will not leave any permanent marks on your fabric, as a pencil or (God forbid) a PEN would! (You know who you are).

I like to use tailor's chalk because it slides onto the fabric so easy, unlike many fabric markers. It has a waxy texture. It also comes off just as easily with a quick brush off or just a dab of water.

Store Tailor's Chalk

Here's a quick tip on making your own tailor's chalk. You know that little sliver of bar soap that is left at the end? The one that is too small to even be of use as a hand soap and gets tossed in the trash. Don't throw that out! Instead, lay it in a warm area and let it dry out. Instant tailor's chalk! Super simple and easy. No residue, no hassle.

Homemade Tailor's Chalk

Now, just imagine all the "tailor's chalk" that has been thrown away in the past....what a shame :)

Textile Talk: Not Just for Scarlett O'Hara

2010-03-12T07:09:00.000-08:00

Crinoline is a structural material that has kinda been forgotten. But it's one that I enjoy using because of it's unique properties.

When you hear the word crinoline, most people imagine stiff petticoats worn under yards and yards of fabric by Victorian women. When crinoline was first invented in the 1830s it was a linen material woven with horsehair, because of it's stiff texture it was used for cloth petticoats. Thank goodness it's not made with horsehair any more and us women don't have to wear it!

I'm a big fan of crinoline for the following reasons:

1. It's cheap. About $2.75 a yard.

2. It's stiffness can be utilized as a base for all materials, including delicates that can not have interfacing fused to them.

3. It's easy to work with. Just cut and go, your done! No fraying.

My favorite use for crinoline is for handbags. I use it as a base to create a foundation for my sewing projects. The "Mia Rose"pattern is a great example of how to use crinoline for bags. It has been pointed out to me that it's also wonderful for backing framed paintings and photos!

Crinoline

Fabric Finds: St. Patrick's Day!

2010-03-10T06:17:00.000-08:00

St. Patrick's Day is just around the corner. Avoid getting pinched and look cute at the same time with these fun fabric finds. Great for a small hand bag or fabric corsage!

Humming Birds in Lime by Patty Young - $2.50 Fat Quarter

Nicey Jane, Pocketbook by Heather Bailey - $2.50 FQ

Magnolia by Jessica Levitt - $4.50 1/2 yard

iPhone/Blackberry Sewing Pattern Tip

2010-03-09T06:02:00.000-08:00

Here's a quick tip for the iPhone and Blackberry sewing pattern. When stitching the flap together, get clean symmetric corners by rounding the corners. Instead of making a sharp 90 degree turn, softly slope the corner and clip with scissors. It will reduce the amount of bulk and give a well defined corner when turned right-side-out.

FREE Pattern of the Month: Card/Cash Holder

2010-03-08T06:30:00.000-08:00

Here's the pattern on the mini wallet I made for my sister. I also made one for myself and it's super convenient. This project is perfect for all those cute little pieces of left over fabric you have. Estimated sewing time: 20 minutes.

Supplies:
1 Pearl Snap
Fabric (at least 5" X 8" pieces)
Lining (at least 5" X 8")
Interfacing
Thread
Optional: Key Ring

Download the CARD HOLDER PATTERN here .

Free Heather Bailey Patterns

2010-03-07T06:38:00.000-08:00

Heather Bailey is one of my favorite fabric designers. Her designs are always so fun and colorful. Check out the cute patterns that are available at her blog HellomynameisHeather. Just scroll the left side of the page and it will be under "Free Patterns".

Square Deal Pin Cushions

Hip Headbands

Baby Booties

Sewing Tools: Cone Thread Holder

2010-03-06T16:32:00.000-08:00

I love gadgets. Especially sewing gadgets! The Cone Thread Holder is a huge money saver. If you don't have one, GET ONE! NOW! Ok, ok...on your next trip to the fabric store is acceptable. This tool is awesome. It only costs about $7 and will save you lots of mula. A typical spool of thread costs about $3-4 for 250 yards. With a Cone Thread Holder you can use the larger spoons of thread (overlock thread) which costs only $1.99 for 3,000 yards! It doesn't matter what type of sewing machine you have, it's so versatile it works with just about every situation. I have used the same one for 10 years and love it, love it, love it.

Cone Thread Holder $7

Just place a spool of thread in the holder. Position the holder close to your machine.

Guide the thread in the same direction a small spool would follow.

So many thread color choices!

How to Sew Leather

2010-02-26T21:26:00.000-08:00

Working with leather is not as scary as you may think. If you use a soft leather/suede you can use your home sewing machine to sew leather. Here are some tips:

Use leather needles. They are thicker and stronger. Making it easier to pierce with less stress on your machine.

2. Thick cotton thread enables the stitches to be strong and not break.

3. Decrease the tension of the thread so it able to accommodate the ungiving material.

4. Use a presser foot made to work with leather. This Teflon foot allows the leather to slide easier than the standard metal foot.

5. Increase the length of the stitch for more working room. Also, manually turn the handwheel for stitching when there is extra bulkiness to help the motor .

How to Sew a Button

2010-02-27T10:49:00.000-08:00

The video tutorial below shows you how to sew on an accent button. This technique attaches a button very securely. No worries about losing that button later on. I use this to attach buttons to my iPhone and Blackberry cases. It can also be used for standard accents on bags, purses, shirts, or any project that uses buttons as decorations.